Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
